A Trip to the Cantina
A Treasure Trove of Goodness
Ever known of a Québécois grand-maman who kept the cold cellar packed to the brim with root vegetables, pickled beets, homemade ketchup, and her famous raspberry jam? Our nonna Faita kept her cantina loaded with tomato passata, pesto, and marinated eggplants, not to mention the demijohns of house wine on the floor and the grapes of salami hanging from the ceiling!
It’s not a coincidence that Québécois and Italian cultures have been so joyously meshing for so long. On top of undeniable chemistry (and a common love for strong-willed grandmas!), these two homey, neighbourly cultural powerhouses share many traditions and fundamental values. Let’s shine a light on a symbol of delicious resourcefulness: here are the keys to the cantina!
“Go down to the cantina and get me…”
It’s a classic request. Pretty much every kid that grew up in an Italian family or hung out in an Italian home was at least once beckoned to grab something for dinner in the cantina. The excursion to the basement—usually dark, charmingly chaotic, and dusty—felt like an adventure. Duck your head, mind your steps: you just walked into Aladdin’s cave of wonders! Since pretty much, well, forever, traditional Italian homes have been built with a dedicated space for food conservation in the basement. It was an obvious necessity before the advent of electricity and all the other modern amenities, but it also meant being able to avoid wasting even just one drop of summer abundance.
No wonder the cantina became a non-negotiable attribute for many Italian immigrant families once they could finally become homeowners. The modest cold cellar was much, much more than a simple basement. It was a bridge between the old country and their new world, and a great way to cut expenses by prepping and storing all their essentials. Like many other countries, Italy has experienced its share of wars and periods of precariousness. Building a year-round pantry became an essential practice to fend off food insecurity. Knowing you have rows and rows of carefully staked goods for you and your family right below your feet is a comforting thought, to say the least. Younger folks have had the chance to dodge such an intimate fear of empty plates, but a hunger for food autonomy, traceability, and a sense of community remains. The spirit of cantina allows for all that and much more!
Eco and Belly-Friendly
Environmental and economic challenges are currently top of mind. For a bunch of different reasons, many people are looking for ways to turn away from processed foods and produce that travelled thousands of miles to reach their plate. Sustainability is trendy, but for many Italian and Québécois families, the proudly prepared stacks of preserved home foods never went out of style. To eat locally and seasonally in the winter wonderland that is Québec, one must take lessons in the art of food transformation and preservation. To put it simply, one must get in tune with the cantina way of life! Whether it’s a small step (a few simple pickles at the end of the summer, glass of rosé in hand) or the whole nine yards (complete collection of cans and jams as well as house wine or beer and maybe even a few charcuteries!), the spirit of cantina deserves to be brought to light.
Charming Chores
Cantina is closely linked to the garden and to all the tasks that go into preparing and transforming food. Historically, the big seasonal farm chores that required a lot of labour force would almost always turn into festive gatherings. Québécois clans are familiar with such a concept, having traditionally come together to work (and play!) during sugaring off season in the spring and épluchettes de blé d’Inde or corn-husking parties in the summer, to name a few. Both in Italy and in the Belle Province, these beloved chores continue on and highlight a sense of communal care. Of course, unless you live on a farm, these tasks are executed on a much smaller scale. But the essence of the tradition remains—taking a whole day with your loved ones to prepare and preserve the very best foods of the season so that everyone can enjoy them year-round.
They might be called chores, but in our book, these group activities are pure moments of joy, pockets of time that provide us with an increasingly rare occasion to roll up our sleeves and show up for each other. Plus, as we work together to prepare what will soon fill the shelves of our cantinas or pantries, we not only share a good time and the sunny goodness of summer produce—we also swap tips and stories. “I added a bit more garlic to the giardiniera this year, it makes a huge difference.” “Remember all those blueberries we found at the cottage? Boy, do they make for a good jam!” Yes, you’ll need to carve out a bit of time and energy, but these tasks are the very definition of a labour of love. They fill up our hearts and our plates with a sense of meaning and belonging that is truly precious. So go ahead and grab your pots, pans, Mason jars, and tutti quanti—the cantina needs stocking up!
Want to stack the shelves of your cantina but need a little inspiration?
Here are 10 essential recipes to take full advantage of the season’s bounty.
